Church & monasteryTransylvania

Densuș Church: the strange stone church made of Roman ruins

Densuș Church, also called the Church of Saint Nicholas, stands in the village of Densuș in Hunedoara County, Romania. Built from Roman stone taken from nearby Ulpia Traiana Sarmizegetusa, it is one of the oldest stone churches in the country and keeps rare murals of 1443, which makes it one of the hidden gems of the Hațeg region.

The Saint Nicholas church at Densuș looks like no other in Romania: its walls, pillars and even its roof were put together from stones carried from the ruins of the Roman capital of Dacia nearby.

WhereVillage of Densuș, Hunedoara County, in the Hațeg region of Transylvania

TypeMedieval stone church (Orthodox), 13th century, with 15th-century murals

Best forRoman reuse in a medieval building, early Romanian painting and unusual architecture

Getting thereAbout 8 km from the Roman ruins of Ulpia Traiana Sarmizegetusa and about 35 km from the fortress of Deva

The history of Densuș Church

The village of Densuș lies in the Hațeg region, a few kilometres from Ulpia Traiana Sarmizegetusa, the capital of Roman Dacia. The builders of the church did not go far to find their material. They used Roman stone from the ruins: columns, pedestals, limestone and marble blocks, tiles and clay pipes. Inside, the four pillars that frame the central square of the nave are each made of two Roman altars stacked on top of each other, and a tower rises above the nave.

Scholars still debate the exact date. Specialists in medieval archaeology place the building in the last third of the 13th century and suggest the Mușina nobles of Hațeg as its founders. The English Wikipedia article adds that, according to one researcher, the church was rebuilt around the central square of pillars between 1250 and 1400, and that its plan resembles an older pillar church found in Alba Iulia, which may date from the 10th or 11th century. Until the 15th century it was part of a court of the local knezial family, a type of local lords, and it was later used by the wider community. The plan is a square nave with a deep semicircular apse. Rooms were added on the south side in the 14th and 15th centuries, and the roof was originally made of stone slabs.

The interior keeps a precious set of murals. An inscription records that the church was painted in October 1443 by a team led by the master Ștefan, one of the first Romanian painters known by name. His work is connected to the artistic tradition of Curtea de Argeș. A second, more rustic painter worked on the pillars, where one finds Saint Marina hitting a devil and Saint Bartholomew carrying his own skin. The murals are thought to be a gift of the Mănjina knezes. Between 1566 and 1720 they were covered with lime, and they came back to light mainly during excavations in 1961–1962. A wooden iconostasis was painted in 1789.

Over the centuries the church served several communities. From 1566 it was also used by Calvinists, and the bell tower carries a Hungarian inscription of 1782. A Romanian Calvinist parish was founded here in 1702. In the early 18th century the building returned to the Greek-Catholic Church, and after 1948 it passed to the Romanian Orthodox Church. In the second half of the 19th century it was in poor condition, and villagers wanted to demolish it to build a new church. The Austro-Hungarian authorities declared it a historic monument in 1870, and the collapsed stone roof was replaced with shingles. Since 1991 the church has been on Romania’s list of sites proposed for UNESCO World Heritage.

Curiosities about Densuș Church

Two lion statues were placed on the roof, and some details, such as columns attached to the outer wall, do not seem to serve any structural purpose.
The pillars of the nave are made from Roman altars, two stacked on each pillar.
Legends say it began as a Dacian temple to Zamolxis, or a Roman temple to Mars. These are described as weak hypotheses, not proven facts.
A hypothesis of 1775 suggested it was originally a tomb for a Roman general named Longinus, later made Christian. It is not proven.
The historian Nicolae Iorga called the church unmatched in all Romanian lands.
A small hidden chamber on top of the nave is connected to the tower but cannot be seen from outside.

Tours near Densuș Church

Experiences in the area that you can book online with Viator:

The Classic Tour of Timisoara

★ 5 (165 reviews) · 2 h

See details ›

Weekly Guided Tour in English - Tuesday, Thursday, Saturday

★ 5 (87 reviews) · 2 h

See details ›

Timisoara All in One - Walking and Tram Tour

★ 5 (72 reviews) · 4 h

See details ›

Half-Day Private Food and Wine Walking Tour Oradea Romania

★ 5 (63 reviews) · 3 h

See details ›

Visiting Densuș Church: what to see

Look at the outside walls first: the mixture of Roman stone blocks, columns and bricks is the church’s signature.
Inside, the 1443 murals and the pillars made of Roman altars are the main attractions.
The church is in the village of Densuș, about 8 km from the Roman ruins of Ulpia Traiana Sarmizegetusa, which makes a natural pair.
The fortress of Deva, about 35 km away, and the Dacian fortress of Costești-Blidaru, about 29 km away, are other sites on this guide.
It is a church still in religious use, so visitors should be respectful. Check the current opening hours before you go.

Opening hours, access and conditions can change. Check before you go.

Map: where Densuș Church is

Map: © OpenStreetMap contributors

Photos of Densuș Church

Questions

Where is Densuș Church?

It stands in the village of Densuș in Hunedoara County, in the Hațeg region of Transylvania, Romania.

Why is Densuș Church so unusual?

It is built largely from Roman material taken from the ruins of Ulpia Traiana Sarmizegetusa, including columns and altars. Together with its tower and stone roof, this gives it an odd, unmistakable look.

How old is Densuș Church?

Specialists place it in the late 13th century, although some researchers suggest an older church stood on the site. Its murals date from 1443.

Was Densuș Church a Roman temple?

Local legends say so, but the English Wikipedia article calls these hypotheses weak. The building is medieval, made with reused Roman stone.

Who painted the murals at Densuș Church?

An inscription names Ștefan as the main painter, who worked with a team in 1443. Another painter, probably local, decorated the pillars.

What can you see near Densuș Church?

The Roman ruins of Ulpia Traiana Sarmizegetusa are about 8 km away, the Dacian fortress of Costești-Blidaru about 29 km and the fortress of Deva about 35 km.