Poenari Castle: the clifftop ruin tied to Vlad the Impaler
Poenari Castle (Cetatea Poenari) is a ruined fortress on a mountain crag above the Argeș canyon, close to the Transfăgărășan road in Argeș County, Romania. Vlad the Impaler repaired it in the 15th century, and today it is reached by a climb of 1,480 concrete steps that rewards you with views over the valley.
Poenari is the ruin often nicknamed Dracula’s Castle, yet Bram Stoker never knew it: he set his vampire stronghold in north-eastern Transylvania, more than 200 km away.
The history of Poenari Castle
The story of Poenari begins before Vlad the Impaler. Around the start of the 13th century the Wallachians built a fortress close to this spot, known as Castle Argeș, and in the 14th century it became the main citadel of the Basarab dynasty. Tradition names the legendary Negru Vodă as its founder. Over the following decades the name and the occupants changed several times, until the castle was abandoned and fell into ruin.
In 1459 Vlad the Impaler saw the potential of the steep rock and repaired and strengthened the old fortress. According to the accounts, he did this with the labour of captured enemies, members of the Wallachian nobility whom he had arrested. The castle was built mainly as a refuge for the ruler in times of war. A massive prismatic tower served as the keep and gatehouse and guarded the only entrance on the western side, while four round towers completed the defence. The walls, up to three metres thick, followed the rock edge, and the whole complex was about 44 metres long.
Legend places a dramatic episode here in 1462, when Vlad’s brother Radu, leading a Turkish army, besieged the fortress. One tale says Vlad’s wife threw herself into the river below, which people later called the Râul Doamnei, the Lady’s River, while Vlad escaped over the mountains with the help of villagers from Arefu, whom he later rewarded with land. Another tradition says he outwitted pursuers by shoeing his horses backwards. These stories are folklore, but they explain why the ruin has such a strong hold on the imagination.
The castle remained in use after Vlad’s death in 1476 and served the princes of Wallachia into the 16th century. Then, under Ottoman pressure, the great fortresses of Wallachia lost their role, and Poenari was left to decay, standing in ruins by the 17th century. A landslide later tore a part of it into the valley, and earthquakes in 1940 and 1977 caused further damage. A partial repair was carried out between 1969 and 1974. Today the surviving walls and towers are listed as a historic monument, and since 2009 the site has been administered by the Argeș County Museum.
Curiosities about Poenari Castle
- Poenari is often called Dracula’s Castle, but Bram Stoker never heard of it. His novel is set in north-eastern Transylvania, more than 200 km away, near the Tihuța Pass.
- A smaller replica of the castle was built in 1906 in Carol Park in Bucharest, for the Romanian General Exhibition.
- A forest fire broke out near the castle on 22 April 2018. It burned on about 14 hectares and took almost two weeks to put out, and traffic on the Transfăgărășan road was briefly stopped.
- A modern rendering of Poenari appears in the 2013 television series Da Vinci’s Demons, where Leonardo travels to the castle to meet Vlad the Impaler.
- The tower at the heart of the castle, a prismatic keep, still shows traces of a portcullis guide and of luxurious fittings such as hexagonal bricks and glazed tiles.
- The Râul Doamnei, the Lady’s River below the castle, is said to take its name from the legend of Vlad’s wife.
Tours near Poenari Castle
Experiences in the area that you can book online with Viator:
Visiting Poenari Castle: what to see
- The climb is the main event: 1,480 concrete steps with handrails lead up the mountain, so allow time and wear sturdy shoes.
- From the ruins you can look down the Argeș valley. The walls and the five towers, four round and one prismatic, are still recognisable.
- The castle faces the Transfăgărășan road and lies about 4 km from the Vidraru dam and lake, so it fits naturally into a drive along the mountain road.
- Curtea de Argeș Monastery, about 22 km away, is the nearest other place of interest on this site.
- Access arrangements can change, so check the current opening hours before you go.
Opening hours, access and conditions can change. Check before you go.
Map: where Poenari Castle is
Map: © OpenStreetMap contributors
Photos of Poenari Castle
Questions
Where is Poenari Castle?
It stands on a mountain crag above the Argeș canyon near the village of Arefu in Argeș County, facing the Transfăgărășan road, close to the Făgăraș Mountains.
Is Poenari Castle the real Dracula’s Castle?
It was a fortress of Vlad the Impaler, the historical figure behind the Dracula legend. But Bram Stoker did not set his novel here: his fictional castle is in north-eastern Transylvania.
How many steps lead up to Poenari Castle?
A concrete staircase with railings has 1,480 steps, so the climb is steep and takes some effort.
Who built Poenari Castle?
The Wallachians built a first fortress here around the 13th century. Vlad the Impaler repaired and strengthened it in 1459, making it one of his main fortresses.
Why was Poenari Castle abandoned?
It was left to decay in the 16th century, when the Ottomans controlled Wallachia and its great fortresses lost their purpose. It was in ruins by the 17th century.
What can you see near Poenari Castle?
The Vidraru dam is about 4 km away, and Curtea de Argeș Monastery about 22 km. The Transfăgărășan road runs close by.
Also nearby
Curtea de Argeș Monastery
Argeș · Neagoe Basarab’s church and royal necropolis
22 km away
Cozia Monastery
Vâlcea · fortified monastery and tomb of Mircea the Elder
27 km away
Sâmbăta de Sus Monastery
Brașov County · Orthodox monastery, destroyed in 1785 and rebuilt
39 km away
Mausoleum of Mateiaș
Argeș · hilltop memorial to the soldiers of 1916
40 km away